In Praise of Chocolate

In Praise of Chocolate

I have been resisting chocolate since the beginning of winter, thinking that if I can forego cream cheese brownies or Maida Heatter’s Queen Mother’s Cake, an amazing chocolate torte, I will be a better (looking) person for it; but Spring is taking its sweet time and as I am standing in front of my cooking library, righteously thinking hearty soups or flavorful stews, the chocolate dessert books beckon me with brighter colors and bolder characters than any other books on
the shelves.

In Praise of Winter

In Praise of Winter

It has been almost a year since I started this rubric and I have not yet written about soups, even though they are the staple of our winter dinners: A soup and a fruit and we can go to bed satisfied, ready to hear the wind howling through the trees, and the rain...
In Praise of January

In Praise of January

“What do you mean, in praise of January?” asked my husband, reading over my shoulder, “what is good about January?” So I said the magic word: “Galette des Rois” (the Kings Cake), and his eyes lit up. On the first of January, this famous cake pops up in patisseries all...
In Praise of Christmas Lima Beans

In Praise of Christmas Lima Beans

I have been in love with dry beans forever. Pink lentils enrapture me. I salivate over green split peas. I would never pass on cream of lima bean soup. By now, you know that it started with my mother, of course. When I grew up, legumes were inexpensive, they were...
In Praise of the Fall Season

In Praise of the Fall Season

Mid-NovemberThe trees have lost most of their leaves and the first frost has killed the last flowers in the garden. Pushed by an eastern gale, a few flurries have been dancing horizontally across the window panes, hardly visible against the white sky. We have changed...

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